Surf funk sucks balls. I'm in one right now. I can't stay standing to save my life and just the other day, I went head first, over the falls at Lani's and whacked the rail of my board on the back of my calf. What a kooooook! And it was only two feet. I dream of ripping. I dream of barrels and steep drops and sweet cutbacks. I have awful balance by nature. My worst event in gymnastics was the balance beam. When I pop up on a wave, nine times out of ten, I squat. As I'm squatting, I tell myself to stand up. But by then, it's usually too late. My squat kills the momentum and I can't make it around the corner. So, yeah. Stance matters. I'm working on it.
On the pro front, congrats to Taj Burrows who won the third jewel in the Triple Crown, beating Kelly Slater in the finals at Pipeline. Poor Kelly. Second again. Tough run for the Floridian.
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