Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Waves

I suppose if a random stranger read this blog, they'd see that the title is "For the Love of Waves," and assume that this blog is about waves. Well, in fact it is. I just haven't written about them yet. If I haven't made myself clear to this point, the reason we're moving to Nicaragua is to surf and live simply. I know it sounds hippie but have no illusions, Ian and I are hippies. Shocking. I know. Sorry babe. I'm done putting words in your mouth. The reason I'm moving to Nicaragua is to surf and live simply. And I'm a hippie. I totally admit it. For Ian, the move is also an investment. I'm just lucky enough to go along for the ride. Some people have career goals in their thirties, other people have babies, I, on the other hand, want to get barreled. Is that wrong?


The best session I've ever had was at Lani's. The best wave I've ever had, or maybe I should say the biggest wave I've ever had, was at Toe's. That day, I was surfing with the boys. Having someone see your biggest wave ever, is almost as much fun as surfing your biggest wave ever. I remember Cully's fist in the air and the hoot from that stranger, just as much as I remember my shaky stance and the speed I felt as I somehow, made it around that corner.



Those are the moments that never leave you.










Here are a couple little vids Ian took of the waves in Nicaragua. Not too shabby ......


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